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Yuko Mio: The Sweetness and Acidity of Pineapples

Publish: August 13, 2021

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  • Yuko Mio

    Faculty of Letters Professor

    Specialization / Cultural Anthropology

    Yuko Mio

    Faculty of Letters Professor

    Specialization / Cultural Anthropology

For over thirty years, since I began my live-in fieldwork in Taiwan as a graduate student, I have continued cultural anthropological research on topics such as religious beliefs, colonialism, and globalization.

I cannot forget how, when I first started my research, telling people I was 'going to Taiwan' would often elicit confused responses like, 'Thailand? I heard Thai food is spicy.' Recently, however, I often hear things like, 'I've been to Taiwan too,' or 'I just found out my grandfather was born in Taiwan.' Above all, the massive donations from Taiwan during the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake changed many Japanese people's perception of Taiwan. As a Taiwan researcher, I cannot help but be pleased that a relationship of neighbors helping each other has emerged, going beyond just being an easy travel destination.

Recently, as pressure on Taiwan from China intensifies, many Japanese people have been supporting Taiwan by purchasing pineapples that China banned from import. These imported pineapples are exceptionally sweet¡ªyou can even eat the core¡ªand I find myself buying them, turning a blind eye to the price and my weight.

By the way, while Taiwanese pineapples might seem like a newcomer compared to those from the Philippines, that is actually not the case. You may see pineapples from Okinawa or Yaeyama in supermarkets, and older generations might remember canned pineapples soaked in sweet syrup rather than fresh ones; if you trace their origins, you arrive at Taiwanese farmers and canners. Those who were pushed out of Taiwan during the colonial period settled in the undeveloped areas of Ishigaki Island at the time, overcoming malaria and friction with locals to plant pineapples and manufacture canned goods. Even after a national border was drawn between Taiwan and Yaeyama following World War II, it is not yet widely known that immigrants and technicians from Taiwan supported the cultivation and processing of pineapples, contributing to the society of Ishigaki Island today.

The reason I have had more opportunities to visit Ishigaki Island in recent years is that I learned of the existence of migrants from my research sites in Taiwan. The Taiwanese community on Ishigaki Island was formed within the context of Japanese colonialism. Furthermore, while overseas Chinese are often imagined as merchants or entrepreneurs, Japan has a type of immigrant society¡ªagricultural pioneers¡ªthat has not received much attention until now, which is fascinating from the perspective of overseas Chinese studies. I would be happy if you could enjoy the sweetness of the pineapple while keeping in the back of your mind that it also contains a sour part: a history of hardship resulting from colonial rule and migration.

*Affiliations and titles are those at the time of publication.